Welcome to Gunbalanya

"Gunbalanya". Note the smoke in the background- it's hot and dry
at the moment so fires burn easily. Some fires start spontaneously
but others are lit intentionally by the Aboriginal people to make
turtle hunting easier in the coming wet season. 

My first week in Oenpelli has been eye-opening to say the least. Firstly, everyone here refers to Oenpelli by it’s Aboriginal name; Gunbalanya. It’s a small Aboriginal community with a population of anywhere from 900 - 1500 people depending on the time of year. Located in Arnhem Land it is mandatory that any non-Aboriginal person visiting requires a permit to be allowed on these traditional lands. Therefore the population is predominantly Aboriginal with a few non-Aboriginal health workers, police, teachers and council employees. On day one I was told that any non-Aboriginal person living here could be classified as being “a missionary, a mercenary or a madman”. I’m not sure which one of these I am?

Lieutenant Macartney

Certainly, the flight over here was a highlight. I flew in a 2-seater, single-engine aeroplane that was smaller than our old Tarago van. I was effectively the co-pilot, wearing headphones and being careful not to push the pedals or controls in front of me. The flight was amazingly scenic. We flew over Kakadu and into Arnhem Land with the border being a dramatic, rocky escarpment and the East Alligator River. I learnt that locals and pilots alike love to entertain with dazzling facts on the area. The truth is never a barrier as long as these facts or stories are delivered with conviction! For this reason I did my own research and now know that Arnhem Land is just bigger than Tasmania or double the size of Switzerland. Air travel is therefore essential for getting around and access to services like healthcare can be extremely difficult.

After arriving in Gunbalanya, I was given a tour of the entire town (duration = 5 minutes) and then went to the clinic for a meet-and-greet. Cyclone proofing of buildings in the NT means that architecturally, my clinic looks more like a prison than a health centre. Plus the fine film of red dust coating the town gives everything a rustic (or rather dirty) look. I also got to check out my donga; a dark blue, Colorbond cabin on the edge of town which will be my home for the next 3 months. It did seem ridiculous to live in a dark coloured, uninsulated, steel box during the hottest months of the year. However, my basic abode is surprisingly liveable. I have air conditioners and fans that keep it cool, a water purifier that hopefully protects me from the waste coming from the uranium mine across the river and a number of pets. As with most outback places in Australia, small frogs tend to enjoy the cool of the bathroom and the pond that is my toilet, and friendly lizards visit daily to keep the insects at bay. I'm happy to share my surrounds with these creatures as long as other more dangerous wildlife stays away!